This past June, Las Vegas was the prime destination for jewellery brands and buyers from around North America and the world.

By Cynthia Unninayar

The largest and longest running show to exhibit in the desert city of Las Vegas, JCK shared the spotlight this year with the upscale Couture show at the Wynn Hotel, the Mirage-based G.L.D.A, and the Sands-situated A.G.T.A. Elsewhere on the “strip” could be found the Antique Jewelry and Watch show at the Paris Hotel while at Bally’s, the newcomer Niche made its debut in the Las Vegas jewellery scene, showcasing an assortment of artist-designers from North America.

The difference is attitudes and ambiance in 2010 was a near 180-degree turnaround from 2009. Attendance and optimism were both up. JCK reported a 20-percent increase in retail buyers (around 20,000), which included international participation from India, Russia, Canada, Britain, Mexico, China, Dubai, and South America. The mood was upbeat at Couture as well, which also reported higher retail buyer numbers, with this year’s by-invitation event attracting 1,583 unique stores.

Comings and goings

As might be expected, there have been a number changes in the industry in terms of new brand launches and even retirements. Among the launches was the new Italian brand “Opera Omnia” (co-owned by the dynamic and visionary Massimo Zerbini, co-founder of Opera Jewels) that debuted at the Couture show. With a variety of gemstone, diamond, and gold pieces, Opera Omnia made a more than favourable impression with its contemporary designs and colour combinations. Also at Couture, Syna—noted for its highly colourful and stylish gemstone bead jewellery and a producer for some of the world’s most notable global brands—has reinvented itself with a line of fashion-forward and elegant gold and gemstone pieces. Another launch was SEAH, created by Rachel Levy. A watch brand that blends the elements of the universe with time, SEAH also creates lovely bracelets that evoke the multiple elements of nature and astronomy.

Over at JCK, the innovative Spectore Corporation launched a ladies’ brand, “Mirella.” Crafted in black titanium with silver accents, Mirella jewellery appeals to a fashionable clientele looking for affordable, wearable, and creative luxury. Award-winning Yael Designs debuted its “Modeco Collection,” created by an exclusive partnership with Revere Academy teacher and renowned designer, Vasken Tanielian. Inspired by the geometric forms of the Art Deco period, these pieces have been revisited for the tastes of today. In a private suite at the Venetian, Zalemark showcased the latest brand to join its growing portfolio, “Paris Blues.” This line of stylish silver and gemstone jewellery is finding great success with the younger crowd.

On the retirement side, one of the icons in the world of original and fine jewellery has decided to retire. A former sea captain turned designer—and a man well-known as a visionary pioneer who took less than perfect gemstones (that would normally have been discarded) and turned them into his stunningly beautiful Crystal Candy collection—Robert Wander formally announced his departure from the jewellery world at his “retirement sale” in the Design Center in JCK. “It’s been a long and amazing career,” mused the septuagenarian Wander, “but now it is time to move on to other things.” He and his wife Deanna (a gifted designer in her own right) will certainly be missed by all of us who appreciated not only their creative spirit but their life spirit as well.

Design directions

One thing the shows all had in common, however, was a wide variety of talented designers and brands showcasing a diversified range of jewellery styles. Among the trends, there was nothing earth-shatteringly new, yet a number of interesting evolutions were noted. The sliced diamond trend that began a few years ago has evolved to include sliced emeralds, rubellites, and other gemstones with diamond accents. Rough diamonds in all forms were also in abundance at the summer shows, as were pieces made by combining a variety of different shapes of facetted diamonds. These are wonderful examples showing that innovation knows no bounds.

Blackened metals continue to gain ground in many collections, from gold to silver to titanium. Alone or in combination with gemstones and diamonds, the “black” look is one of this year’s most obvious trends. While non-colour black is gaining in popularity, it has not, however, been at the expense of other colours, which are depicted in a delightful number of ways: gemstones, fancy diamonds, pearls, enamel, or even in silver and gold, where rainbow colours are now clearly in evidence.

The organic look with fluid and asymmetrical lines remains popular, in a variety of materials and with or without diamonds and gems, as do circles and ovals. The upward rise of eco-friendly jewellery, most notably using ethically mined gemstones and gold, and/or recycled gold, continues unabated. The theme of Nature in all its glory is universal, and depictions include numerous examples of flora and fauna, both wild and domestic.

In terms of gemstones, a wide variety of stones are used in a plethora of designs with quartz, citrine, amethyst, garnet, peridot, topaz, spinel, and beryls, among others. The more “precious” sapphires, emeralds, and rubies were also everpresent. Various combinations of all types of coloured gems were used to evoking a new and affordable luxury.

Silver designs (in both blackened and natural colour) continue to grow in popularity, respectability, and saleability as “fine” designers turn increasingly towards this other white metal. Silver is also the “bead” of choice for “personalized” jewellery.

Bridal is the largest single category of fine jewellery and its representation at the summer shows was no exception. From stylized to classic to vintage, wedding jewellery is also taking on a bit of colour, both in the metals and in the diamonds and gemstones. For the daring bride, there are even diamond and gold toe rings.

Among the categories of jewellery, there was truly something for everyone. Ranging from conventional and conservative to flamboyant and flashy, just about any and everything could be seen in Las Vegas this June. From stylish studs to hollow hoops, from dazzling dangles to petite pendants, from long and loopy to organic and eco-friendly, jewellery came in many forms. Since pictures are worth thousands of words, examples of some of the more interesting pieces seen in Vegas are shown on these pages.

Change in JCK venue

JCK Events announced that the 2011 show will be moving from the Sands Convention Center at the Venetian Hotel to the larger and more luxurious Mandalay Bay Convention Center further down the “strip,” and that next year’s exhibition space is already sold out.

With speculation rampant as to what, if any, actions the Couture show would take in light of this important move, show management reported that Couture will commit to hosting 1,000 retailers each year from 2011 to 2013, that it will provide transportation (luxury cars and/or shuttles) between Wynn Las Vegas and Mandalay Bay, that it will continue to provide the same level of entertainment as past years, and that it will nurture the cornerstone and signature retailer programs. Interesting times for these two major forces in the jewellery industry. . .