By Cynthia Unninayar

Among the world’s “emerging” nations, Brazil has undoubtedly one of the strongest domestic economies, with a US$2 trillion GDP. The world’s fifth largest nation by size, it is also well endowed with natural resources, including more than 100 gemstone types. No surprise then, that one of Brazil’s most colourful industries is jewellery.

The eighth largest economy in the world, and sixth in purchasing power, Brazil is a key player in the global economy, and among its most elegant exports are jewellery and gemstones, valued at more than US$2.2 billion. Exports are expected to rise to US$3 billion in 2012—a number that is supported by the more than 23 percent increase already in the first four months of 2011. Hécliton Santini Henriques, president of the Brazilian Institute of Gems and Precious Metals (IBGM) explains, “Brazilian brands are being recognized worldwide for their unique design, sensibility, and charisma. Their jewellery is solidly positioned in the mid-range, between the very high-end and lower-cost classic jewellery.”

The showcase for Brazilian jewellery is the bi-annual IBGM-sponsored Feninjer trade fair. This past August 3 to 6, the show highlighted its design directions for the year in the 2012 edition of its Jewelry Design Preview, available to local and international buyers. Serving as more than a trends guide, this preview “sets a strategic vision for the many different steps involved in designing jewellery and fashion jewellery items and is intended to strengthen the Brazilian identity,” says Henriques. “Its focus on the Brazilian identity resulted from the synergy between organizations representing Brazilian fashion sectors and segments. Its contents have been decoded through lectures and workshops. More than ten events are held to disseminate four trends/sources of inspiration for the upcoming collections of each jewellery complex in Brazil,” adds Regina Machado, design consultant for the publication.

Illuminated

This trend refers to jewellery that encompasses pavé settings, used alone or in combination with larger gems and diamonds. Along with the sparkle of gems, the brilliance of metals plays a primary role in this category. Diamonds—white, black, and brown—and coloured sapphires combine with the more traditional rubies, sapphires, and emeralds to bring the fire of gemstones back to life to meet the expectations of an increasingly larger group of consumers as they experiment with classical elements in an original manner.

The Nature of All Things

This category includes the full repertoire of a natural life, which has become the muse for jewellery in 2012. The designs are figurative, abstract, or more literal, representing the vast universe of Nature’s creations. Even geometric forms, within organically inspired pieces, express patterns evoked by natural shapes. Designs range from colourful gem-set pieces to highly polished metal interpretations of flowers, plants, birds, marine life, mammals, and insects, among others.

Profile – Identify Yourself

Self-expression is a strong influence in design and, in this category, charms and pendants tell stories and convey personal styles. In the large social network of the world, a woman’s preferences are revealed and her personality defined by jewellery. Pieces range from simple metal pieces to colourful complexities set with a variety of gemstones.

Brazilian Gemstones

Colourful gemstones are the central characters in many jewellery creations. The incredible diversity of Brazilian coloured stones and their new cutting styles have earned them an undisputed place among the hottest new jewellery products. From simple quartz in all its glorious colours and forms to topaz, tourmaline, diamond, and emerald as well as a variety of lesser known varieties, Brazilian gemstones add zest and originality to today’s jewellery designs.

In all categories, the pieces shown here are representative of the originality, creativity, and sophistication of Brazilian jewellery. All photos are courtesy of the individual designers and the IBGM.