Brave new world
At the First fair in Vicenza, the Italians were split on whether the secret to their long-term success lies in promoting classic jewelry or fashion
Veterans of the international trade fair circuit know there are two kinds of exhibitors at the First show, held every January, in Vicenza: Those who produce eminently chic, if fleeting, fashion jewelry and those for whom “made in Italy” is a battle cry for pieces that stand the test of time. As business philosophies, they couldn’t be more different, yet for the 1,700 companies that showcased their newest merchandise at the goldsmith fair in mid-January, these two approaches represent flip sides of the same Italian coin. The first approach is, arguably, the one that defines Italian merchandise in the greater context of the global jewelry scene, and the First fair is, naturally, where the trendiest of such trendy merchandise makes its debut. This year, the pieces most in vogue included those featuring black and white gemstones in matte and polished forms, ornate bib necklaces best suited to women with statuesque features (not to mention long necks), variations on the traditional diamond tennis bracelet using a mix of semiprecious stones and varying shapes, and a heavy dose of jewels evoking feathers, animals and leaves. “Our industry is getting closer to the models and rhythms of fashion and is observing that trends of fashion and style merge with trends in our own sector,” Domenico Girardi, the fair’s new general director, said at a press conference. “It will be necessary to innovate more quickly, to speed up, and the business models will be different.” Girardi’s fellow organizers are, it seems, in full agreement. Witness the show’s new Glam Room, unveiled at the Choice event in September and enhanced for the 2009 gathering. The pavilion of 26 exhibitors is dedicated to jewels that combine precious materials with alternative elements, such as wood, glass, ceramic, ebony, Perspex and steel. By 2010, noted Girardi, the Glam Room “will become an independent pavilion where we celebrate the conjugation between fashion and jewelry.” Yet the notion of jewelry as accessory is at odds with the way many of Vicenza’s finest exhibitors see their work. In discussing his company’s plans for Baselworld, for example, Umberto Picchiotti, of the Valenza-based manufacturer, said: “We will concentrate on more valuable pieces and won’t do as much fashion or design collections. We never did.”
Glam slam: The entrance to the Vicenza fair’s new Glam Room, which General Director Domenico Girardi describes as “an independent pavilion where we celebrate the conjugation between fashion and jewelry.”
Likewise, Isaac Levy, founder of Yvel, the Israeli pearl jewelry manufacturer, said he would focus his merchandise on higher-ticket items that required the same amount of effort to sell as lower priced goods. He also noted that his global marketing strategy hinged on finding “pockets of wealth” rather than conquering entirely new markets — a reflection of how thoroughly globalized our world has become: affluent consumers are invariably jet-setters, meaning their wealth is as mobile as their high-tech phones. “You cannot target a country today,” Levy said. “You have to focus on a group of people. For example, we don’t sell in Belgium, but we sold to a group of Belgians. We have a couple of wealthy people in Kuwait and Dubai. It’s about targeting the right customer.” At the First fair, however, it was clear the Italians were struggling to define, or even recognize, who that might be. “We’re still trying to understand what to do,” said a woman at the Andreoli booth. “I think everybody’s in crisis. We haven’t seen any Americans. The first day was noticeably quiet, and it’s supposed to be the strongest.” Export statistics tell an equally disheartening story. According to figures released by Italy’s National Statistics Institute, the value of jewelry and gold exports for the first three quarters of 2008 fell by 5.54 percent compared to the same period in 2007. “The data is linked to the strongly negative performance of the month of August (-71%), but partially balanced by the good performance registered in the month of September,” according to the Institute’s statement. One of the report’s bright spots affirmed that the United Arab Emirates is now Italy’s chief export market, with a 16.4 percent share representing a 14.56 percent increase from 2007 to 2008 — numbers that squared perfectly with sentiment on the show floor. “Abu Dhabi,” Picchiotti said, referring to the capital of the UAE, “seems to be the next hot place.”
While black was ubiquitous in Vicenza this year, the selection wasn’t as somber as you might think.
Palmiero’s graceful green Feather ring
