By Cynthia Unninayar

In its second year with the impressive new infrastructure, the 42nd edition of the eight-day BaselWorld show continued its focus on attracting luxury brands in the watch and jewellery sectors. This year, however, two other events sprang up in the area, both attempting to capitalize on BaselWorld’s global appeal.

As last year, the main attractions at BaselWorld were the watch brands. The lavish multi-story stands in Halls 1.0 and 1.1 drew crowds that jostled to see the latest products, which represent 95 percent of the Swiss watch sector.

While satisfied with the overall results, show organizers indicated that the number of exhibitors was somewhat lower than 2013, which was lower than 2012, essentially because the fair’s goal is to attract mainly high-end exhibitors. Buyer attendance was also down slightly, although total visitors reached a record 150,000, which included representatives of exhibitors, journalists (4,000!), and the public.

While the watch halls seemed quite busy, most exhibitors in the jewellery halls, where I spent the largest part of the eight-day event, felt that the show was “quiet,” adding that, while they had appointments with some current clients, they met few new ones. Even usually busy brands confided that most visitors were “just looking.” Few booths were busy. Having said that, however, other exhibitors in Hall 2.1 and Hall 2.2 (more than half was occupied by watch brands this year) expressed delight with the results.

In the related branches pavilions, traffic was also less than last year, but according to fair officials, “This decline in quantity is no great cause for concern as it was compensated by a rise in quality, with attendance composed for the most part of trade visitors…The sector is performing well, as shown by the upturn in interest from European markets and steady demand from Asian markets.”

Business was a bit more brisk at the Hong Kong pavilion in Hall 4. Susan Lam Director, Germany and Central Europe of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC) commented, “BaselWorld is an excellent platform for Hong Kong jewellery and watch companies to show their new collections and demonstrate their design and manufacturing capabilities to international buyers.”

Design Directions

While it is impossible to cover all of the creative brands at BaselWorld, included here is a representative range of companies and their latest collections. As for many of the others not mentioned, you will find examples of their jewellery in our Trends & Colours pages. Speaking of trends, there was nothing radically new. One observation, though, was that more and more jewellery brands are creating watches, generally with Swiss movements. This line extension is perhaps not unexpected as the watches tend to evoke the same codes as the jewellery.

The predominant design directions were generally in line with the top trends we predicted in our Winter Trends Guide. Colour was everywhere, in single tones and multi-coloured bouquets. Lacy and open filigree-type designs proved popular as antidotes to high metals prices. Nature-inspired pieces, especially flowers, butterflies, and snakes, were in abundance. Exotic earwear, cuffs, and rings made bold statements. Multi-finger rings and single- finger rings with designs extending down the finger offered fresh approaches to the traditional circles. Skulls and other edgy pieces maintained their appeal for certain consumers.

Highlights

This year’s show offered some brands the opportunity to celebrate milestones in their existence. the India-based, fine jewellery family brand, Bapalal Keshavlal, celebrated its 75th anniversary with a line of intricate 18K gold diamond jewellery in the Auratam collection, as well as exquisite diamond, ruby, and emerald pieces. A century older, Spanish brand Bagués/Masriera commemorated 175 years of existence with a unique snake ring made of 557 diamonds set in 18K gold with 15 different enamel colours. Bagués presented intricate and technically sophisticated enamel and gold spheres in the form of earrings and necklaces.

First-time exhibitor to BaselWorld, UK-based Graff Diamonds, drew a lot of attention with its US$55 million Hallucination watch. -is exceptionally rare multi-coloured diamond timepiece is estimated to be the most valuable watch ever created.

Another first-time participant, Italy based Luigi Ravasi Gioielli, featured massive gold necklaces and bracelets. Totally handcrafted with juxtapositions of textured matte and brilliant finishes, the necklaces weighed as much as 15 ounces of 18K gold. These special pieces were available in yellow tones as well as a light pink alloy special developed by Luigi Ravasi.

After a two-year absence, Jewellery Theatre returned to BaselWorld with a line of Flowers in addition to its fairytale and freeform jewellery. the reason for its absence? The Russian brand had relocated to London.

Another brand that returned to BaselWorld after a brief absence was Shawish. Two years ago, the Swiss brand impressed everyone with its diamond ring carved from a solid diamond. This year, it presented a series of exceptional pieces in its Magic Mushrooms line, including the world’s most expensive USB keys, incorporated into an enamelled and bejewelled mushroom pendant. The most remarkable piece, however, was an elaborate 18K rose gold cuff in the form of a diamond-studded octopus, topped by a natural pale pink pearl. Flirting with advanced technology, Shawish added an impressive system of interior lighting that makes the diamonds sparkle with different colours.

A master of the moonstone, the German-brand Jochen Pohl showcased these lovely gems in addition to a line of beautifully crafted rose gold pieces set with a variety of coloured gemstones and diamonds. Nearby, fellow German brand, Jörg Heinz, featured an interesting jewel that transforms from one design to another at the slightest touch of a finger.

Introducing its new Instinto collection, Spanish brand Magerit evoked the relationship between the human and natural worlds. Its pieces (and marketing material) combine the strength of a panther with feminine subtlety. Also from Spain, Carrera y Carrera drew inspiration from the delicate embroidery patterns on silk shawls from a bygone era, in its new Seda Imperial collection.

Exhibiting in the watch Hall 1.1, Versace introduced new designs in its Fine Jewellery Collection. Using colourful gems and diamonds, these handcrafted pieces evoke both the classical motifs of Versace’s legendary heritage, as well as the allure and sophistication of the brand’s world today.

The Year of the Horse was epitomized par excellence by Chinese brand, TTF, which presented a wide variety of realistic and stylized versions of the proud animal as well as other creations.

At the other end of the spectrum, a new brand, Dani by Daniel K, presented a collection of very fashion-forward silver jewellery set with cubic zirconia and lab-grown gems in a variety of colours.

A few other remarkable creations seen at BaselWorld are also featured on these pages.

The Two Other Shows

Two other trade events took place during BaselWorld. The city’s iconic Markthalle was the venue for Rapaport Group’s Diamond Show. According to organizers, the four-day event drew several hundred buyers who came to see its 70 exhibitors from the USA, Belgium, Hong Kong, Britain, Israel, and India. Some of the exhibitors expressed satisfaction, while others felt the show was quiet, yet overall, they were optimistic for next year (March 19, 20, 22, 23), as more people learn about it.

The Jewellery & Gem Fair Europe, co-organized by UBM Asia, opened its doors on April 1. Focusing on business and sourcing for the mid-price segment of the market, namely materials used for finished products with a market value of €1,000 to €3,500, the four-day show featured show featured 430 exhibitors from 33 countries and regions. Pre-registered visitors numbered 6,500 (half from outside Germany). Traffic was brisk on the opening day, when I attended, and the ambiance was upbeat. As of press time, final attendance figures were not available. Show organizers indicated that, due to increased demand, they are adding a new hall for next year’s fair (March 22 to 25).

These two additional shows seemed to cater to a market that was not available at BaselWorld, with two different types of clientele. It will be interesting to see how these complementary events evolve. Stay tuned.

Dates for the next BaselWorld are March 19 to 26, 2015.

www.baselworld.com