By Cynthia Unninayar

The world’s largest and most important trade fair devoted to amber celebrated its 20th anniversary in March, and, interestingly, the film Jurassic Park, which stimulated renewed interest in this living gem two decades ago, also feted its 20th year.

This year’s Amberif show, held in March 2013, was the backdrop for a wide range of creativity and designs showcased by more than 450 exhibitors. Held for the first time in the new and very modern Amber Expo, the fair’s exhibitors came largely from Poland, although 14 other nations were also represented. Since most of the world’s amber comes from the Baltic region, the beautiful and hospitable city of Gdansk provided the perfect venue to display creations made from this 40-million-year-old gem.

“The first Amberif had 49 exhibitors. Today, the number has increased to around 450,” said Amberif Project Director Ewa Rachon. “This year, nearly 6500 trade buyers visited Amberif, from 54 nations.” Post-fair surveys indicate that exhibitors and visitors were very pleased with the results, especially in light of the snowstorms that had brought Europe to a standstill the day before the opening.

One of the visitors, who braved the snow and ice, was Gina Giadrosich, of Texas-based Amber Way Jewelry. “I started in the amber business some 20 years ago and discovered the second edition of Amberif. Since then, I have come yearly to Gdansk for the fair, missing only one in two decades. Amberif is a great place to meet my longstanding clients, and to look for new materials and make new contacts. We sell a wide range of jewellery, priced from around $30 for simple silver and amber pieces to around $1500 for high-end designer pieces in gold. Of the more than 3000 designs we carry, the most popular are tri-colour pieces in sterling set with green, honey, and lemon amber.”

Parallel to the fair were a scientificoriented amber symposium, the Amber Design Awards, Trend Book 2013+, and and a spectacular Amber and Fashion Gala, combining impressive fashion with creative amber jewellery. And, to ensure buyers’ confidence, the fair again sponsored a special laboratory to test amber for its authenticity, free of charge, under the guidance of Dr. Ewa Wagner-Wysiecka, of Gdansk University of Technology.

Nuggets of natural amber, showing different textures, colours, shapes, and sizes (photo: IAA).

Types of Amber

Many types of amber could be seen at the fair, from the natural gem to stones that had been modified by certain acceptable treatments. The most common acceptable treatment is a heating process to obtain transparency, or the desired cognac colour, or the glittery “scales” found when air bubbles trapped in the amber burst during heating. For clarification purposes, the International Amber Association (IAA) developed the following classification for Baltic amber (Succinite).

1. Natural Baltic Amber, which has undergone only mechanical treatment, e.g. grinding, cutting, turning, or polishing, without change to its natural properties.

2. Modified Baltic Amber, which has been subjected only to thermal or highpressure treatment, which changes its physical properties, including the degree of transparency and colour, or shaped under similar conditions out of one nugget, previously cut to the required size.

3. Reconstructed (Pressed) Baltic Amber, made of Baltic amber pieces pressed under high temperature and under high pressure without additional components.

4. Bonded Baltic Amber, consisting of two or more parts of natural, modified, or reconstructed Baltic amber bonded together with the use of the smallest possible amount of a binding agent. As in all gemstone transactions and treatments, disclosure to the client is important.

Just as in the gemstone sector, however, a minority of dealers try to pass off imitations as authentic amber, including glass, plastic, synthetic resins, and natural or modified sub-fossil resins (copal). Amber imitations are not new and have been around for hundreds of years, therefore dealing with a trusted company is important. The IAA has established a system of certification for companies, thus offering a guarantee of authenticity (www.amber.org.pl).

Left: Inclusion of insects in amber. Right: Inclusions create a “face” in raw amber. Samples provided by Amber Planet.

Inclusions and Designs

While inclusions are not generally appreciated in other gemstones, they are often desirable in amber, especially if the inclusions are insects. “Thanks to amber, we can peek into the past, touch it, feel it, find ourselves in a reality that existed 40 million years ago. This is the sole opportunity created by nature where we are able to observe flora and fauna of the ancient world. We become witnesses to events that took place millions of years ago. Looking inside amber, we can discover The Lost World,” mused Andrzej Wiszniewski, owner of Amber Planet, a brand specializing in amber with inclusions, often set in silver to make attractive pendants and other jewellery.

Butterfly with amber wings made of a single piece of amber by Ambermix.

Insects aside, design creativity and innovation were not lacking at Amberif. Among the brands presenting interesting innovations was Ambermix. Along with other collections, the company introduced a line of butterflies whose multi-coloured wings are made of a single piece of amber using a technique that took three years to develop. Robert Rogala, owner, explained: “Natural amber is found as a lemon colour in nature, and this is what we use to make the butterfly’s wings. The stone is heated for 24 hours at 300oC to obtain a 0.1-mm thick cognac colour on the surface. After another 4 hours of heating, the surface colour changes to cherry. After a further 6 to 8 hours, the surface colour changes to black. When the top and bottom 0.1-mm layers are filed down, the lemon colour is again revealed. The amber slices used for the wings are then carved, heated to gain the right colour, and polished in certain areas to achieve the right design.”

An amber bracelet, made with gold and diamonds by NAC Amber.

Many brands offered simple pieces, in a rich palette of hues, set in silver, while others displayed more complex amber creations set in gold with diamond accents. Among the latter was NAC Amber. With three basic collections, the brand’s designs range from minimalist to classical to highly sophisticated. One of its more striking pieces was a remarkable bracelet in reddish amber set in gold with diamond accents. Designed by owner, Marcin Wesolowski, it combines gold, simplicity of detail, and a subtly of form, which made it a hit with buyers. “We sold all that we brought to the show,” mused Marta Wesolowski, the designer’s wife.

Necklace made of cubes of amber set with silver by Ambermoda.

Ambermoda, another family enterprise, offered several collections, including one comprised of tiny squares or beads of amber attached in clusters set in silver to make interesting pieces. Other lines featured larger pieces of natural amber, designed by Mariusz Gliwinski, who works with wife, Danuta, the amber buyer, and daughter Gosia, who takes care of marketing. Ambermoda’s small workshop and showroom are near Gdansk.

Ring with three colours of amber set in silver by S&A Jewellery Design.

The largest jewellery manufacturer in Poland, S&A Jewellery Design, founded in 1992, employing some 200 people, showcased a range of silver and amber designs. “Our pieces are market-specific,” said Dominika Czechowska, Managing Director, “since some countries prefer different colours or shapes.” She added that S&A also sells to shopping channels and has distribution around the world, including 70 outlets in China.

Another leading company in silver and amber fashion jewellery, plus gold-plated pieces, is Zimmermann Design. “We carry a wide range of products,” stated Ditta Zimmermann, “including convertible jewellery, and our new Solaris line made of facetted amber.” She added that “clients in Europe prefer smaller silver and amber pieces, while Chinese customers prefer large honey-tone pendants.

Pendant in gold-plated satin silver by Zimmermann Design & Facetted amber and gold pendant by Art 7.

Facetted amber was also seen at Art 7, owned by Wojciech Kalandyk, a company selling a wide range of amber set in silver, as well as an impressive array of chunky natural amber and silver pendants.

Danuta Burczik-Kruczkowska wears one of her large natural amber necklaces.

In terms of chunky natural amber, the signature style of Danuta Burczik- Kruczkowska was seen in necklaces and bracelets made of large, unheated, natural beads of varying sizes and shapes. “The beads get ‘polished’ as they are worn,” smiled Ms. Burczik. Prices for these large statement pieces range from a few hundred dollars up to several thousand. The company also creates small sculptures such as a tongue-in-cheek amber whistle pendant on a cord.

Amber and silver peacock art object by Studio DF.

Amber sculptures and jewellery were also seen at Studio DF. “We look at a piece of amber and then discuss with our silversmith how to create the best design, whether for jewellery or for an art object. We also make have small collections of unique pieces, some set with venge or ebony wood,” said Donata Kuryłek.

Amber elepant by Design & Style.

Small sculptures of Buddhas, animals, and other motifs were on display at Ryszard Kulczynski’s Design & Style. “In addition to our honey-coloured bead necklaces, our elephants are especially sought after by our Chinese clients,” said Kulczynski.

Amber and silver pendant by Eva Stone & Silver and amber brooch by Bizuteria Wasowska.

Artistic forms and beads in all sizes and shapes were the order of the day at Eva Stone, owned by Ewa Szyszko, and Bizuteria Wasowska, owned by Malgorzata Wasowska. Both booths also displayed a large variety of silver and amber jewellery.

The Chinese Connection

Walking the show, and listening to comments from exhibitors, it was clear that buyers from China were out in force. “At Amberif 2013, Chinese buyers are the fourth largest group,” stated Michal Kosier, Vice-President of the IAA. “Their attendance and orders have been growing over the last few years, as has the media interest in China.”

Nancy Chui, IAA ambassador to China, added that Chinese interest in amber dates back more than 3,000 years, when it was originally used for its medicinal properties, then later decoration and adornment. “Today, Chinese consumers appreciate amber as a natural stone for its variety of colours, shades, and inclusions, in addition to its therapeutic qualities,” explained Ms. Chui. “Amber is often compared to jade as being from the ‘old days’ plus its ‘beneficial’ effect on the wearer. Both stones are facing the same challenges in their jewellery applications: How to remove the ‘old-fashioned’ image and appeal to modern Chinese customers? It seems that amber, with its wider presence globally, has advanced much faster than jade in reestablishing itself in modern jewellery with innovative designs.”

Clearly, the attraction for amber is global. Whether the fascination for this living gem comes from art or jewellery or its medicinal properties, amber will continue to delight for many eons to come.

Amberif 2014 will be held March 19 to 22. The next Ambermart will take place in Gdansk, August 29 to 31, 2013.

www.amberif.amberexpo.pl