By Cynthia Unninayar

The bi-annual Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair kicked off its 47th edition on February 25 with an accent on jewellery design and the welcome news that rough stones would be exempt from duties, a boon for the nation’s gemstone dealers.

A spectacular multimedia presentation and an elegant fashion show held at Bangkok’s modern Impact Challenger Exhibition Hall at the beginning of the winter edition of the Gems & Jewelry Fair highlighted the initiative to promote the creative designs of Thai jewellers and the Ploi Thai brand name. The term “Ploi Thai” is Thailand’s own country name for the gems produced and cut in the nation. The “Ploi Thai Jewelry Creation” design competition, with original entries in both gold and silver, showcased pieces that reflect the skills of Thai designers, gem cutters, and craftsman, and that will make up part of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry road shows as they travel around the world, visiting important trade fairs in places such as Basel, Las Vegas, Mumbai, and Dubai. Another highlight of the show was the “Jewelry Trends of 2012” event that illustrated the trends for the upcoming year. It was organized by the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association in collaboration with Swarovski.

The gem and jewellery sector represents Thailand’s third largest industry, resulting in more than US$10 billion in annual sales, and Bangkok’s bi-annual gem and jewellery show plays an important role in this sector. This year’s fair attracted some 1,500 exhibitors, including 300 international participants, in sixteen key product categories, with more than 35,000 visitors coming from 35 countries, including major buying delegations from Russia, China, and India. “From a modest start less than three decades ago, today the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair is now recognized as being among the top five jewellery trade shows in the world. And I am proud to say that the 47th fair has set new records for exhibitors and visitors who come to Thailand from every corner of the world,” declared Somchai Phornchindarak, CEO of the Bangkok fair.

Thailand’s main gem and jewellery export market has long been the United States, which represents about one-quarter of total exports. Although this major market took a dive with the economic slowdown beginning in 2008, the situation began improving by mid-2009. Interestingly, one consequence of the economic slump and the rising gold price is that Thai silver jewellery exports to the USA increased during this period. Thailand is now the leading exporter of silver jewellery to the United States, and starting in 2009, Thailand became the world’s largest single exporter of silver jewellery, with total exports valued at around US$956 million. With its position as the world’s biggest silver jewellery exporter, it came as no surprise that a great many of the stands at the Bangkok fair were silver producers proposing a wide variety of products. These ranged from simple metal pieces to elaborate crystal and cubic zirconia-set creations to original upmarket designs set with coloured gemstones or treated with special patinas.

Also present were producers of delicately crafted traditional Thai jewellery made in silver as well as traditional gold pieces.

The second largest part of the fair was devoted to gemstones, again not surprising since Thailand is one of the world’s major gem cutters. The industry received a boost last year when the 27-percent import duty on rough was removed. Through the efforts of the Thai Gem and Jewelry Traders Association, the Thai government finally granted a tax incentive program, including Zero VAT and duty exemption of rough stones, which was implemented in 2010.

A significant but smaller number of stands offered fine jewellery in gold alone or set with coloured stones in a variety of interesting and original designs. It seems that Thailand’s designers are slowly moving away from the idea of private label manufacturing—which the country is famous for because of the quality of production and labour skills—in favour of creating their own unique brands offering affordable luxury under their own names.

Finally, the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand (GIT) conducted a seminar on “Creative Ruby and Sapphire Grouping for Traders and Consumers,” with the goal of increasing the understanding of and standardization within the industry regarding rubies and sapphires. This discussion centred on the topics of disclosure regarding enhancements and treatments, standardized laboratory reports, and uniform terminology to avoid confusion among gem laboratories, traders, and consumers. As for pricing, this was said to be left to market forces.

The 48th edition of the Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair will be held September 14 to 18, 2011, where the creativity of Thai designers will once again be on parade.

(All designs are from Thai Compagnies)