Garrard, making jewellery history for 290 years

January 2026


Garrard, making jewellery history for 290 years

Garrard is one of the most evocative names in jewellery. Founded in London in 1735, it was the first official Crown Jeweller, appointed by Queen Victoria in 1843. CEO since 2016, Joanne Milner talked with Europa Star Jewellery about the House’s almost three centuries of history.

T

he company that became Garrard was founded in 1735 in London by master silversmith George Wicks. Having won its first royal patron in Frederick, Prince of Wales, Garrard was later appointed the first official Crown Jeweller, to Her Majesty Queen Victoria, thus cementing its role both in British history and the history of jewellery.

The House, which is celebrating its 290th anniversary, continues to capture the imagination and illuminate the world with exquisitely crafted creations. Below are just some of the milestones in its almost three-hundred-year legacy.

The setting of the Cullinan diamond, the largest rough diamond ever discovered, is certainly one. Entrusted to Garrard in 1907, the Cullinan had already been expertly cleaved into nine principal stones. In 1910, the Cullinan I, also known as the Great Star of Africa, was set into the Sovereign’s Sceptre. Originally made for King Charles II in 1661, the sceptre was redesigned by Garrard to hold the 530.2-carat pear-shaped diamond within a heart-shaped setting, complete with a hidden hinge allowing the stone to be removed and worn as a brooch. The Cullinan II was placed in the Imperial State Crown beneath the Black Prince’s Ruby. 

Joanne Milner, Garrard CEO
Joanne Milner, Garrard CEO

Another defining moment in Garrard’s history came in 1981, when Lady Diana Spencer selected her engagement ring, a sapphire and diamond cluster, from Garrard’s stock. Its striking design featured a 12-carat oval Ceylon sapphire, set within a halo of 14 brilliant-cut diamonds. 

More recently, Garrard’s enduring legacy was reflected in the Coronation of Their Majesties King Charles III and Queen Camilla. Historic pieces created in Garrard’s workshop played a significant role in the ceremony, showcasing the House’s contribution to Britain’s royal tradition. As Chief Executive Joanne Milner notes: “We are so proud that these historic pieces of regalia, which were crafted in our workshop, played such a significant role in the coronation. This moment reaffirmed Garrard’s place at the heart of ceremonial craftsmanship and national heritage.”

Garrard's flagship boutique in London's Mayfair turned Royal Blue for Queen Elizabeth II's Platinum Jubilee.
Garrard’s flagship boutique in London’s Mayfair turned Royal Blue for Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee.

“In 2025, Garrard proudly celebrates 290 years of excellence in jewellery craftsmanship. This remarkable milestone is not just a celebration of time, but a testament to the House’s enduring spirit of creativity, artistry and innovation. From coronation regalia to contemporary high jewellery, Garrard’s history is defined by moments that continue to captivate and inspire.”

Europa Star Jewellery: Setting the Cullinan I must have been a challenge. Can you tell us more about it? 

Joanne Milner: The Cullinan diamond was presented to King Edward VII by the Transvaal Government as a gesture of loyalty and celebration. The diamond was then cleaved into nine principal stones, numbered Cullinan I to IX. Among these, the Cullinan I and II are the most renowned and hold a distinguished place in Garrard’s long history of royal commissions. In 1910, under the reign of King George V, Garrard was tasked with remodeling the historic Sovereign’s Sceptre, used at every coronation since 1661. The commission required the setting of the Cullinan I diamond. To House this extraordinary stone, Garrard redesigned the head of the sceptre with a heart shaped openwork setting that allows light to pass through and maximise the brilliance of the diamond. Ingeniously engineered with a concealed hinge mechanism, the setting also enables the Cullinan I to be removed and worn as a brooch. This inventive approach is one of many feats of craftsmanship that have defined Garrard’s enduring role at the heart of British royal jewellery. The Sovereign’s Sceptre remains one of the most recognisable of the Crown Jewels, and the setting devised for the Cullinan I continues to inspire Garrard’s contemporary designs. Its heart-shaped form lives on in the Sovereign Motif, a signature element in the House’s Aloria and Fanfare fine jewellery collections. 

Queen Mary's Consort Crown, crafted by Garrard.
Queen Mary’s Consort Crown, crafted by Garrard.

The remaining stones were fashioned into remarkable royal jewels, including the Cullinan II in the Imperial State Crown and the Cullinan III and IV into brooches, affectionately known as Granny’s Chips by Queen Elizabeth II, as well as other brooches featuring the Cullinan V, VI and VIII stones. Together, they speak to Garrard’s unrivalled legacy of innovation, artistry and excellence in jewellery design.

How was such a rare stone transported?

Transporting a diamond of such significance was no small undertaking. To protect the Cullinan on its journey from South Africa, an elaborate security plan was devised. A high-profile decoy was sent by boat under heavy guard, while the real diamond was quietly dispatched in a plain box via registered post.

When Princess Diana chose her engagement ring from Garrard, did this spark a surge in demand for sapphire rings? 

When Princess Diana chose a sapphire and diamond cluster ring from Garrard’s existing stock in 1981, it redefined the tradition of engagement rings. The ring showcased a 12-carat oval Ceylon sapphire encircled by 14 brilliant-cut diamonds. The striking combination of the deep blue sapphire and radiant diamonds immediately captured the world’s imagination. Diana’s choice was a departure from royal tradition, which often favoured bespoke designs. Yet the bold elegance of her ring quickly became a global icon. Images of the young princess wearing the ring were seen around the world, inspiring a surge in demand for coloured gemstone rings, particularly sapphires. This design became known as the Garrard Cluster, an enduring symbol of love and style. Over time, the ring’s legacy grew and in later years, it was given to Catherine, Princess of Wales, who continues to wear it with pride. Its journey from Diana to Catherine has further cemented the design’s status as one of the most recognisable engagement rings in history. Garrard continues to be known for sapphires and other coloured gemstones, with the Garrard Cluster remaining a source of inspiration for the House’s contemporary collections. 

The Windsor motif takes inspiration from the intricate pattern found on the bandeau of the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara, one of the most beloved and recognisable royal tiaras. Here worn by H. R. H. Queen Elizabeth II.
The Windsor motif takes inspiration from the intricate pattern found on the bandeau of the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara, one of the most beloved and recognisable royal tiaras. Here worn by H. R. H. Queen Elizabeth II.
© Europa Star Archives

With such a long history, there are countless stories illustrating Garrard’s craftsmanship. Is there one in particular that stands out in your mind?

One of the lesser known but most memorable moments from Garrard’s archives is the emergency repair of Queen Elizabeth II’s diamond Fringe Tiara on the morning of her wedding in 1947. While Her Majesty’s hair was being styled ahead of the ceremony, there was an accident with the tiara and it broke. The tiara was immediately returned to Garrard under police escort. With remarkable calm and precision, Garrard’s craftsmen worked swiftly to repair the piece, ensuring it was ready for the bride to wear as planned. The successful restoration, carried out under intense pressure, stands as a lasting testament to the discretion, dedication and expertise of the House’s workshop. 

In an expanding jewellery offering, what makes Garrard different? 

First of all, we are still an independent company today, which is already a feat. We are not part of a big group and this enables us to perpetuate our creative freedom. Garrard is defined by the rare ability to honour its royal heritage while embracing contemporary design. As one of the few jewellery Houses in the world to have crafted Crown Jewels, we continue to draw inspiration from our storied past. Our creations are distinguished by three essential elements: design, exquisite materials and exceptional craftsmanship. We are well known for selecting the most exquisite coloured gemstones. We often seek unique stones and create our designs around them.

Princess Diana's Sapphire Engagement Ring
Princess Diana’s Sapphire Engagement Ring

Each piece is thoughtfully designed, often drawing on the House’s iconic motifs, from the Sovereign motif inspired by the setting of the Cullinan I in the Sovereign’s Sceptre to the timeless elegance of the Garrard Cluster. Finally, every jewel is brought to life through the unparalleled skill of our master craftsmen, who ensure that each creation is a work of art. 

Garrard jewels are more than treasures to be worn. They are a celebration of artistry, heritage and storytelling, honouring a legacy of craftsmanship while embracing the style and aspirations of today’s clients. Owning a piece of Garrad jewellery is owning a piece of history itself. But we don’t want our jewellery to live in a safe. We are an all-women design team and we want our pieces to be beautiful, of course, but also wearable and comfortable. We also like to create transformable pieces which is also a distinctive feature of Garrard, particularly in our bespoke collections but also present in our current collections.

The 1735 Double Colour Cluster Sapphire Ring embodies the craftsmanship and excellence of the iconic Garrard Cluster.
The 1735 Double Colour Cluster Sapphire Ring embodies the craftsmanship and excellence of the iconic Garrard Cluster.

  What are the brand’s inspirations and signature designs?   Garrard’s creations are inspired by a legacy of British royal history and meaningful symbols, reimagined with contemporary elegance. Our design language is defined by a series of iconic motifs, each carrying a story that reflects the House’s heritage. 

The Cluster motif is perhaps our most recognisable design. Featuring a central gemstone encircled by a halo of brilliant-cut diamonds, it was immortalised by Princess Diana’s sapphire engagement ring in 1981. This timeless design has been reimagined within our 1735 collection, where it continues to captivate with modern interpretations. 

The Sovereign motif, inspired by the setting of the Cullinan I in the Sovereign’s Sceptre, is another enduring symbol. Its heart-shaped design and openwork detailing capture the artistry and ingenuity for which Garrard is known. This motif is celebrated within our Aloria collection, where it transforms into elegant, contemporary designs. 

The Windsor motif takes inspiration from the intricate pattern found on the bandeau of the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland Tiara, one of the most beloved and recognisable royal tiaras. This refined design is a tribute to Garrard’s historic connection with the British royal family, reinterpreted with a modern aesthetic. 

Garrard, making jewellery history for 290 years

The Fanfare collection takes us back to when we were on Panton Street in the theatre district. It is inspired by the excitement and drama of the masquerade balls that captivated London in Garrard’s founding years. The silk fans carried by guests are interpreted in elegant openwork designs and delicate scalloped silhouettes.

All these iconic motifs are more than decorative; they are expressions of Garrard’s craftsmanship, history and unrivalled heritage. Each piece is a testament to the House’s ability to honour tradition while creating designs that speak to today’s discerning clients. 

Customers and business have changed a lot in our modern era. How is your distribution organised today? Who are your clients?

Our flagship store on Albemarle Street in London is still our biggest point of sale. We do have standalone stores in Shanghai, Beijing, Doha and Riyadh in partnership with local firms who bring their local expertise. We have other smaller locations in department stores around the world and we are growing our digital footprint as well. Our clients are very international, but a lot actually come to us in London to have the full Garrard experience. We have a lot of successful women buying for themselves as an investment or simply to celebrate their successes. They intertwine their history with our own, especially when we design a bespoke piece for them.

Albermale collection: Juxtaposing graphic symmetry and abstract asymmetry, the Albemarle collection features classic and contemporary interpretations of the Windsor motif, another Garrard icon.
Albermale collection: Juxtaposing graphic symmetry and abstract asymmetry, the Albemarle collection features classic and contemporary interpretations of the Windsor motif, another Garrard icon.

Garrard was awarded the Butterfly Mark in 2017 for its commitment to sustainability. Why is this important for you?

For me personally, sustainability is an important aspect of what any business should be doing. Garrard is 290 years old and if we want to still be around in the next 300 years, we have to change the ways we do business. We turned to Positive Luxury [which awards the Butterfly Mark] because they understand the luxury industry well and are familiar with the scale of our business. Likewise for the Watch & Jewellery Initiative 2030. We joined to embark on that journey to transform our business and the industry as a whole. It enabled us to measure our impacts and identify the aspects we can change. Being able to work with large players and use the tools that the WJI 2030 offers — like the Nature Roadmap or the Human Rights Navigator — has been really helpful to move towards the challenging targets we have set. Our aim is to advance on that journey so that our clients can invest in our pieces, safe in the knowledge that we have done whatever possible to source our materials responsibly, minimise wastage across our operations and give back more than we take out.

The Albermale collection worn by Qun Ye for Garrard's latest campaign.
The Albermale collection worn by Qun Ye for Garrard’s latest campaign.

In a bold move for the industry, Garrard has established a jewellery rental service. How is it going?

At Garrard, we want our jewellery to be worn. We created this rental service with that in mind. The initial focus was for the bridal market, especially pertaining to tiaras. It is an item you might only wear once. With the rental model, a bride can rent the tiara for one day, return it and use the money of the rental fee to buy a collection piece that will remind them of that memorable day forever.