ith the Divas’ Dream Peacock collection, born in 2017, Bulgari “has transcended the Swiss concept of métiers d’art and taken it to a different level”, notes CEO Jean-Christophe Babin in “Bulgari Beyond Time”, the book tracing the Maison’s creative journey. Inspired by Bulgari’s rich heritage, creativity, and expertise, the Divas’ Dream Peacock collection unfolds a story as sublime as the peacock itself, a marvel of nature arrayed in gala splendour.
Divas’ Dream Peacock has its own chapter in the mythical realm of ’Animali Fantastici’, Bulgari’s legendary bestiary. While ‘Serpenti’ – the hypnotic serpent – embodies mysterious seduction, Peacock, or ’Pavone’ in Italian, the majestic peacock, radiates beauty and confidence through the silky nuances of its feathers. Whereas Serpenti coils around the wrist, Peacock, like a true diva, unfurls its arched feathers in a wheel – a multitude of arabesques and curves dear to Bulgari’s stylistic lexicon, reminiscent of the mosaic designs in the Baths of Caracalla.
The iconic Divas’ Dream Peacock Dischi marries the horological mechanics of an automatic calibre with mysterious hours to a dial adorned with marquetry of natural peacock feathers – a technique mastered by Bulgari since the 1970s. The Divas’ Dream Peacock Diamonds reveals a dial decorated with fan-shaped motifs, inspired by the mosaics of Caracalla. Indeed, on these vestiges, testaments to past splendour, you will find renditions of the peacock, a powerful symbol since ancient Egypt and associated with the goddess Juno in Roman mythology.
Today, Divas’ Dream Peacock unveils new masterpieces, showcasing Bulgari’s artistry of marquetry and evoking the most exquisite and precious ancient mosaics: the Divas’ Dream Peacock Feather Marquetry, the Divas’ Dream Peacock Mother-of-Pearl Marquetry, and the remarkable Divas’ Dream Peacock Precious Marquetry with Jumping Hours and Retrograde Minutes, an opulent creation featuring a rose gold dial set with diamonds and inlaid with aventurine and malachite.
The Divas’ Dream Peacock Feather Marquetry is an ode to the naturally luxurious plumage of the blue peacock. Twelve spectacularly hued feathers bloom on the dial, their ’eyes’ a symbol of wisdom. Known as ’hairs,’ these feathers are naturally shed by the bird and subsequently collected. They are meticulously selected for their extraordinary colours and textures and inlaid using a technique originating in Antiquity. Known to be applied in Renaissance Italy, this craft was rediscovered by Bulgari in the 1970s. Although it requires only the simplest of tools – a magnifying glass, tweezers, knife and scissors – this extremely meticulous process takes several days. Each feather is passed through an antique brass steam machine to reveal its natural lustre. It is then cut, assembled, glued and cut to compose a mosaic shimmering with silky reflections.
The Divas’ Dream Peacock Mother-of-Pearl Marquetry portrays the regal silhouette of a peacock in gold and mother-of-pearl. Its fan-shaped feathers sweep across the lower dial, while a tuft adorns its head, complete with a beak in rose gold. Set against this is a delicate backdrop of white mother-of-pearl, engraved with rays to highlight the manifold symbolism of this magnificent creature, emblematic of wealth, protection, and wisdom, its theatrical tail evoking a star-studded sky. Creating this mother-of-pearl marquetry demands immense finesse due to the material’s fragility. The mother-of-pearl elements are painted on the reverse to introduce varying shades of blue, then intricately cut and set into recesses carved directly into the dial. Flush inlays, outlined in rose gold, accentuate the organic accentuate the organic iridescence of mother-of-pearl, this most precious gift from the sea.
The peacock comes to life on the dial of an exceptional Divas’ Dream timepiece, donning spectacular finery that merges horological and jewellery craftsmanship. Drawing inspiration from the cabochon cut, a Bulgari hallmark since the 1950s, a sapphire dome floats above the majestic form of this precious creature. With its three-dimensional marquetry, the bird spreads its tail fan wide, its antique-inspired shape reflected in the intricate detail of its plumage.
Each component is delicately curved to nestle within the layered structure. Rose gold, snow-set diamonds, aventurine, and malachite further embellish this magnificent figure. The intense green of malachite not only evokes the peacock’s regal attire; in ancient Rome this stone was provided protected against misfortune. Aventurine glass, so named because it was created “per avventura” (by chance) in 14th-century Murano, is yet another testament to Italian mastery of many rare artisanal skills.
A highly complex creation, this majestic Divas’ Dream Peacock demanded a year of development and numerous iterations. The unique watchmaking mechanism, with at its foundations the BVL 262 Manufacture movement, magnifies the craftsmanship deployed. The “jumping” hours appear in the aperture at twelve o’clock. A retrograde hand, located at the upper part of the dial, indicates the minutes. To avoid overshadowing the time display, its stem is crafted from transparent sapphire, extended by a metallic tip. Lastly, tsavorites grace the cabochon-cut crown and the peacock’s emerald eye, exquisite details on an extraordinary timepiece.
