On 16 May, two days after the exceptional sale of “Jewels for Hope: The Collection of Mrs Lily Safra”, Christie’s Geneva will hold its “traditional” spring auction of „Magnificent Jewels‟ at the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues. More than 340 lots estimated in excess of $50 million will be offered in Geneva, including spectacular jewels created by some of the most remarkable designers of all time.
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The most valuable lot of the sale is a pair of pear-shaped diamond earrings by Harry Winston (16.21 and 15.67 carats, D/VVS2, potentially flawless), estimated SFr.3,000,000-3,750,
The finest gemstones & the 23.60 ct coloured diamond ring
True to its tradition of offering the best gemstones for sale, Christie‟s has once again assembled a selection of rare diamonds and gemstones.
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In addition to the extraordinary pair of pear-shaped diamond earrings by Harry Winston, this section will be highlighted by a Fancy Brown-Orange diamond ring of 23.60 carats estimated at SFr.570,000-760,000. The stone had once been offered to Elizabeth Taylor by Richard Burton in 1975 while they were in Africa, but Elizabeth Taylor refused the present, arguing that the money should rather be spent for building a hospital in Botswana.
Amongst the finest jewels for sale is a stunning diamond flower brooch estimated at SFr.2,375,000-3,325,000.
Other outstanding gemstones include a cushion-shaped Kashmir sapphire ring of 33.07cts estimated at SFr.2,400,000-2,900,000; a 14.66 carat Fancy Intense Yellow, a 52.28 carat Fancy Yellow, cultured pearl and ruby brooch (estimate: SFr.760,000-1,150,000, and a 47.15 carat octagonal-cut Burmese sapphire and diamond brooch by Mellerio, estimated at SFr.450,000-550,000.
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An antique masterwork
From the collection of a noble Genoese family, a Belle Epoque old-cut diamond tiara of unique quality and elegant design is the highlight of the selection of antique jewellery (estimate: SFr.300,000-500,000). This impressive diamond tiara was part of a large group of exceptional jewels, specially commissioned by Italian jeweller Filippo Chiappe (1863-1936), for the wedding of Count Carlo Raggio and Marchioness Tea Spinola in 1909. Appointed court jeweller to the Savoy House and official supplier to the Italian Royal Family in 1913, Filippo Chiappe is one of the most famous Italian jewellers of his time.
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Jewels by Jar
Only two days after the sale of the collection of Mrs. Lily Safra which includes the largest group of jewels by Jar ever seen at auction, another seven great creations by the renowned jeweler will be offered at Christie‟s Geneva, with estimates ranging from $5,000 to $300,000. The highlight of this section is a stunning 3-stone diamond ring estimated at SFr.210,000-290,000. Also from the same private collection is an ebony, chalcedony and amethyst bangle estimated at SFr.34,000-42,000, while a delicate pair of green beryl and tourmaline spiral ear clips from a different property is estimated at SFr.120,000-180,000.
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The Great Cats of Cartier
Jeanne Toussaint was appointed director of jewellery at Cartier in 1933 and went on to become one of the most influential jewellery personalities of the 20th century. She was given the nickname „The Panther‟ by Louis Cartier on account of her choice of panther skin rugs in her apartment, and was credited with the creation of „Big Cat‟ jewellery. The Duke of Windsor commissioned a panther brooch in the late 1940s, and since then the panther has become an iconic Cartier motif. The concept of the tiger being used in jewellery was inspired by a personal commission from Barbara Hutton, who requested a brooch and pair of ear clips depicting tigers, which became one of her signature jewels. The strong character of both these women is perfectly mirrored in these bold feline designs.
A great example of the legendary „Big Cat‟ series is a diamond, coloured diamond, onyx and emerald tiger brooch created by Cartier in the 1960s. Designed as a tiger hanging from a baguette-cut diamond hoop, its body, tail and head set with yellow diamonds and onyx, this brooch will be offered at Christie’s Geneva with an estimate of SFr.270,000-360,000.
A sapphire and diamond panther brooch by Cartier will also be for sale. Designed as a reclining panther, entirely pavé-set with diamonds, with sapphire buff top spots, two pear-shaped emeralds for eyes, and a nose applied with black enamel, this fabulous piece is estimated at SFr.240,000-360,000.
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The Maria Felix parure & superb antique indian jewellery
The highlight of a section dedicated to antique Indian jewels is undoubtedly the set of impressive diamond, enamel and gold jewellery from the collection of Mexican movie legend María Félix (1914-2002). Comprising of a brooch designed as a Mughal tulip set with table-cut diamonds, a bracelet set with octagonal and pear shaped table-cut diamonds, a necklace centering upon a table-cut diamond flower-head with old-cut diamond leaves , and a pair of modern ear pendants, designed as diamond flower-heads (illustrated right), this extraordinary set dates back to the 19th century and will be offered as a single lot with an estimate of SFr.950,000-1,450,000.
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In the same section, a magnificent mid-18th century Indian emerald, diamond and enamel Sarpech or turban ornament is estimated at SFr.670,000-950,000. Originating from the Deccan region in India, this magnificent jewel is a vivid example of Mughal refinement at its best and almost certainly adorned the turban of a great ruler during the 18th century. As one of the most important ornaments in the attire of Mughal Emperors, the Sarpech would symbolize the power and glory of its bearer, just as crowns would do for European Royalty.
