By Cynthia Unninayar
Colour is today the undisputed ruler on the fashion runways and in the world of contemporary jewellery. And, when you think of fine gemstone jewellery, one name invariably comes to mind, a name that has expanded far beyond its hometown of Idar-Oberstein to become one of the world’s most respected fine jewellery brands
Five centuries ago, Idar-Oberstein attracted miners who settled there in search of gemstones found in the cliffs of the region, starting a tradition that flourishes to this day. After the miners, came the cutters and engravers, and before long, the small German town had turned into one of the world’s most famous centres for gemstones. It was against this backdrop—where the secrets of gemstone cutting and jewellery making were passed from generation to generation—that Jochen Pohl grew up. As a young man, he apprenticed as a goldsmith with his father, and then continued to learn his craft while developing a very special relationship with gemstones.
Today, Jochen Pohl’s very successful eponymous brand is in the same town,located in a building known for its minimalist, almost monolithic, concrete design, somewhat reminiscent of a spaceship. The workshop is modern, clearly organized, and illuminated with lots of natural light, and therefore serves as a direct contrast to the countless traditional tools, workbenches scarred by hot metal and sharp tools, and the characteristic leather aprons designed to catch valuable gold and platinum shavings. A perfect example of how tradition and craftsmanship can be combined with modern technology, it reflects Jochen Pohl’s definition of luxury as a “symbiosis of exceptional quality and durability.”
But, he muses, “The real story is the stone. It is about much more than its mere value. It’s about discovering its essence, its unique self-contained world, its personality.” And discover it, he does. Pohl’s designs are individually developed to bring out the best of each stone, which include such beautiful gems as rubellite, tanzanite, Mandarin garnet, aquamarine, moonstone, and tourmaline, to name but a few. His respect for the beauty and uniqueness of each and every gem forms the basis of his creations, which are as diverse as the colours found in nature. The colourful rings, earrings, and pendants are small sculptures with a surprisingly modern design that reflects the spirit of the times.
Respecting the stone are not mere words. Pohl lives by and cultivates this philosophy. Just look at the time and effort made to examine the rough gem from all sides before measuringand faceting it in accordance with the natural shape of the crystal in order to bring out its true character. Or, think of all the time necessary to achieve a flawless finish on the gold or platinum, or the precision used in drilling and shaping each hole so that the stone aligns perfectly with the setting, or the secure way it is attached to the metal. “We invest all this time and effort out of respect for the stone that has taken millions of years to form, and out of respect for our clients around the world, who expect the best.”
Once set in a piece of jewellery, the solid construction of the metal with the stone is surprisingly soft and comfortable on the finger. Pohl refers to this as the “equilibrium and balance that set the jewellery apart.” This same equilibriumis opulently shared by all Jochen Pohl jewellery, whether minimalist designs or the occasional radical creation. “It’s essential that each piece should be unique,” he adds. “When I select the stone, I already know what the piece is going to look like and how it’s going to feel on the body. I always imagine how the owner of the ring is going to look.”
For Pohl, it is always a very special moment when the future wearer and the piece of jewellery come together for the first time, when they find their stone’s own unique story.
Among the major jewellery shows, this year, Jochen Pohl will be present at BaselWorld in April and Couture in Las Vegas, where the brand continues to attract important retailers in America and around the globe.
