INFLUENCES - Trending - Faux sure

December 2008


“Costume jewelry has once again come into its own,” wrote The New York Times in a 1938 article lauding Chanel’s “flamboyant, iridescent” necklaces

Yves Saint Laurent cuff in anthracite

That faux jewels were a hit during the Great Depression may explain why 70 years later, as we enter our own perfect storm of financial crises, the fashion world is renewing its appreciation for costume jewels. Vera Wang, Lanvin and Balenciaga were among the labels that emphasized dramatic accessories on the runways during the latest round of fashion shows.

Yves Saint Laurent earrings in crystal and strass

Rather than streamlining looks to reflect a pared-down sensibility, designers are piling things on, using layers of necklaces, stacks of bangles and voluminous metallics to deflect attention from the economy and its effect on our collective mood. Just look to the exuberant creations of Daniel Weinberger, a designer who collaborated with Anne Demeulemeester on both of her spring 2009 catwalk shows.

Theatrical costume design from Daniel Weinberger

From brass to strass, the faux materials he uses approximate the look of fine jewelry only insofar as both are eye-catching. Alas, when volume is in vogue, as it is today, the former becomes all the more appealing.