By Cynthia Unninayar
People were looking expectedly at the first in the trilogy of trade shows in Vicenza, Italy for signs that the Italian industry, in particular, and the global industry, in general, might be on the road to recovery. Indeed, Vicenzaoro First indicated a degree of renewed optimism for the sector.
Now in their 62nd edition, the Vicenza fairs are an important barometer for the jewellery sector in Italy and the world, and attendance figures for the January event showed reason for a bit of optimism. According to fair officials, the presence of accredited buyers at the end of the sixth day numbered 17,969 compared with 13,154 in 2009, an increase of 37 percent. The countries with the most participation were France, Germany, Greece, Spain, Israel, Turkey, and the United States, with buyers representing the most important department stores and luxury retailers on an international level. On an anecdotal level as well, the hallways were definitely crowded and most booths were busy, especially during the second, third, and fourth days.
“The positive feelings expressed in these last few days,” said the fair’s incoming Chairman, Roberto Ditri, “have further reinforced my enthusiasm for my new position and my conviction that with these premises, the approval of the shareholders, and the collaboration of the staff, we will be able to fine tune great projects and proposals for consolidating Fiera di Vicenza’s leadership role on the international stage and to provide support for the entire gold sector.” In his new role, Roberto Ditri stated that he is quite aware of the challenges facing the Italian jewellery export sector, which has seen exports decline over the past few years (due to rising and volatile gold prices, increasing strength of the euro against the dollar, competition from Asian manufacturers, and the fall in jewellery demand), intensified by the global economic crisis (exports were down 20 percent in 2009 compared to 2008). He also stated that he has made every effort to gather information from entrepreneurs, buyers, the media, and others related to the industry “for defining future strategies which will be tackled and discussed very soon by the fair’s Board of Directors.”
At the international press conference during the fair, Ditri asked members of the media to proffer their opinions of the fair and ways to improve it. Suggestions ranged from revisiting the names of the fair (First, Charm, Choice) to holding competitions for emerging Italian designers, from defining and clarifying the “Made in Italy” label to lobbying for cuts in import duties in key export markets such as China and the USA.
Design Directions
The most obvious trend at this edition of Vicenza was that there were not really any new trends. Most of the brands said they would be introducing their new models in March in Basel. Still, some introduced new versions or variations on preceding models. The number of lightweight designs continues to increase as new t e ch n o l o g i e s allow for innovative and saleable openwork and hollow pieces. Multi-media jewellery combining gold, bronze, wood, titanium, and other materials was in abundance. The increasing use of silver by many major brands continues in stylish and fashionable forms, with or without diamonds and gemstones. In stylistic terms, many design directions followed earlier presentations. The long loopy look in necklaces was evident, as was the open look in cuffs and bracelets.
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| Diamond & gold earrings Casato & Gavello |
Earrings ranged from studs to long and dangling (a few more chandeliers were seen this year), while rings evoked large centres with diamond accents or lots of pavé colour.
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| Diamond and onyx pendant by Giovanni Ferraris & ebony and gold ring by Raffaella Mannelli |
The non-colours of black and white comprised jewellery in many designs, offering a contemporary and sleek look in black and white diamonds, ebony and quartz, or diamonds and onyx.
Gem World and Glamroom
For the second time, the fair held a special section dedicated to gemstones, “Gem World,” established in cooperation with Assogemme Association.
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| Bracelet by Santagostino & earrings by Marco Bicego |
It grouped together a number of gem dealers from around Italy and the world that showcased a wide variety of colourful gemstones. This year, Glamroom was again held inside the main fair next to the prestigious Hall B1. Present were a number of local and foreign designers and artists who showcased a wide range of innovative and colourful products made in a variety of materials, at varying price points.
Industry News
Among the range of topics discussed by many at the fair this year was the announcement of the death of Italian jewellery icon, Stefan Hafner. After years of battling a serious illness, Hafner passed away on January 11, just a few days before the opening of the show. Ironically, he had also won the legal right to begin working again, after having sold his company and name to a mid-eastern enterprise, and was planning on starting a new venture with another designer. For all those who knew him and appreciated his enormous and pioneering talent, the news of his passing was sad indeed.
On a different note came the announcement of a merger between Italian brands Rosato and Calgaro. While no financial details were released, the agreement was described as a way to help ride out the economic times. Stefania Marchesi, Rosato spokesperson, stated that the two companies would continue to operate independently in terms of design, product development, and brand strategy. Rosato was founded in 2004 by Simona Rosato, and is well known for its whimsical gold and enamel charms, as well as other attractive jewellery. Calgaro was founded by Giuseppe Calgaro and Monica Fin in 2000 and made quite an impression in the jewellery world with its woven, fabric-like gold and silver pieces. The next two editions of the Vicenza fair will be held in May (Vicenzaoro Charm) and in September (Vicenzaoro Choice).
