The International Gold, Silver, and Jewellery Exhibition held in the picturesque Tuscan city of Arezzo had more to celebrate than its 30th anniversary this past March. OroArezzo seemed to signal a break in the downward spiral of visitor attendance that has plagued other international jewellery trade shows.
By Cynthia Unninayar
Given the state of the global economy, expectations were low for the fair’s organizers as well as for its 450 exhibitors, but on March 24, at the conclusion of the four-day event, they all drew a collective sigh of relief. Visitor numbers remained largely unchanged from last year, the level of orders was promising, and an agreement was signed between the trade fairs of Vicenza, Valenza, and Arezzo for the development of a national jewellery system and the harmonization of exhibitions.
“Beyond every expectation,” said Giovanni Tricca, President of the Centro Promozioni e Servizi, the company that organizes OroArezzo, “we were able to stop a practically inevitable fall in visitor numbers given the extremely delicate state of the international jewellery market. The number of visitors, more than 7,500 from 73 countries, was substantially the same as that for the last edition—an exceptional result, particularly in the light of the results for the other important trade fairs. We are especially proud of the fact that these results were achieved during the 30th edition of OroArezzo.”
A view of Arezzo’s centre. This region in Tuscany is home to more than 1400 gold jewellery producing small and medium enterprises. (Photo: Andrea Barghi, APT Arezzo Archives)
“Princess” necklace in yellow and white gold spheres made of gold sheets with glazed and diamond-cut finishing by Daniela Coa
Lacy earrings and necklace made of ruthenium and silver by Daveri
“Plissé” necklace in pink gilded silver and fossil coral spheres, made from pleated sheets and flex-tubing by Sem-Ar
Arezzo holding its own
Tricca was also proud of the fact that gold and jewellery exports from the Arezzo region held up in 2008, showing a 0.2 percent increase over the previous year, while exports from Italy’s other main jewellery districts—Alessandria and Vicenza—reported decreases of 16.2 percent and 13.6 percent, respectively.
The figures for Arezzo are due mainly to exports to the United Arab Emirates, which for some time has been the main client of the Tuscan district. The UAE increased purchases by 30.8 percent in 2008 and by more than 43.1 percent in the last trimester. Exports to Turkey were also positive—up 9.9 percent despite a decrease of 15.4 percent between October and December. On the other hand, the decline in exports to the United States appears nearly unstoppable, with a decrease of 36.9 percent for 2008, and a slide of 43.5 percent in the last quarter alone. Overall, however, the trend in 2008 for Arezzo, which counts 1,413 gold and jewellery companies, showed production down by 9.9 percent, while revenue was down by 8.1 percent, according to the Arezzo Chamber of Commerce.
Ring in amethyst, gold, diamonds, and enamel by Artlinea
New strategies In order to stay ahead of low-cost labour centres that copy Italian design, manufacturers are producing several new collections a year. Also, to remain competitive, many small to medium companies are working together to help reduce labour costs, maximize marketing, and provide volume for big buyers. A number of companies in Arezzo are also becoming very creative in the design of their pieces, including the use of more coloured gemstones and pearls in addition to offering a bigger and bolder look.
“Harmony” suite made of electroformed yellow gold with black and white enamel
by New Line
Innovation and design
In response to the current gold dilemma, more companies are crafting lightweight, filigree, hollow, and electroform pieces in all sizes and shapes, as well as cut-out designs, thus offering a larger look for a smaller price. But, as one designer mused, “It is not so much the high price of gold that is so problematic as it is the level of its fluctuations.”
As a gold-chain manufacturing centre, Arezzo produces chains that are on the cutting edge of style. Unlike the chains of yesteryear, the links of today are very design-oriented and come in a variety of combinations, shapes (disks, ovals, hearts, circles, hollow, and solid), and textures—matte, satin, scratched, and hammered.
Textured gold earrings by Giante
New conceptual interpretations in shapes and materials were also apparent throughout the show. In terms of metals, yellow and pink gold were top performers, while innovative pieces in bronze, brass, silver, titanium, and steel showed a great deal of creativity. Designers also used other materials such as wood, Murano glass, rubber, leather, enamel, pearls, and coloured gemstones. The use of colour has become more prevalent in the last few years in pieces seen at OroArezzo. As an example, many of Artlinea’s collections pair amethyst with other gemstones set in gold to create energetic and organic designs. Marta Maelstri, sales and marketing manager, explained that the company’s goal is to create elegant pieces that evoke lots of colour and movement. Falcinelli, which was founded in 1968 with a focus on diamonds, now makes designs with a variety of gemstones, especially amethyst and citrine paired with diamond pavé, to give a bold and dynamic look. According to Laura Falcinelli, whose brother Fabrizo is the designer, the company has also started creating exotic lines of silver jewellery aimed at very fashion-conscious younger consumers.
“Galaxy” rhodium-plated necklace and bracelet with gilded silver, crystals, polished chains and spheres by Nuova Duecentotrenta Ar
“More and Less” necklace with silver, copper, cornelian, black onyx disks, and polished chains by UnoAerre
Première designs
While known primarily as a volume show where jewellery is sold by the kilogram, OroArezzo also hosted the classic Première designer event, now in its 18th year, sponsored by the Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena. Focusing on design, the event offered buyers the opportunity to preview the stylistic trends and technological innovations of Italian jewellery in terms of products that will be offered for sale later this year. Première also proved to be a testing ground for jewellery designers, as a selection of the nine best pieces—based on design, practicality for manufacture, and saleability—was made by a panel composed of specialist jornalists representing the most important international jewellery publications.
The 60 companies that entered the Première competition collectively displayed a creative use of gold in all its colours—yellow, red, rose, white, and chocolate—as well as silver, a reflection of the current global economic crisis. Some also used gold-plating or gold combined with metals such as ruthenium. Also seen in the entries were enamel, colourful gemstones, Swarovski crystals, and cubic zirconia.
The creativity of the companies reflected an innovative use of modern technology combined with the skill of traditional craftsmanship, which could be seen in the surfaces, such as diamond-finished, satin-effect, and striated to create a scratched effect with chromatic contrasts. It could also be seen in the lace effects, in laser etching, and in soldering to strengthen pieces created from threads of metal as fine as a strand of hair.
“Golden Lace” ring and earrings made from laser-cut yellow gold sheets by PVZ
The nine “Best in Show” winners were Condito (Torre del Greco), Daniela Coaro (Vicenza), and Daveri (Vicenza) while the others—Jessica, New Line, Nuova Duecentotrenta Ar, PVZ, Sem-Ar, and UnoAerre—were all from Arezzo. Images of the winning pieces are shown on these pages. Ending its 30th edition on a note of cautious confidence, OroArezzo proved itself once again to be an important destination for affordable yet quality Italian jewellery. (www.oroarezzo.it)
Bracelet, and ring in gold with coloured pavé sapphires by Jessica (Designed by Fabio Arango).
Yellow gold ring with Australian baroque pearl by Condito
