By Cynthia Unninayar
In the Winter issue of CIJ Trends & Colours, our annual trends tracker guide, we present the top ten
trends for jewellery design for 2012 as well as the top ten trends in fashion colour as forecast
by the Pantone Color Institute® for Spring/Summer 2012. “Consumers look to spring
for renewed energy, optimism, and the promise of a brighter day,” said Leatrice Eiseman,
executive director of the Pantone Color Institute®. “They have learned how colour can help
them alter a mood, while providing the vitality and enthusiasm that enables them to experiment
with new looks and colour combinations.”
1. COLOUR
In fashion, designers are inspired
by diverse influences, offering a
range of styles, from free and playful
to light and breezy, from shiny
metallics and sequins to serious
and subdued, as well as contemporary
classics. Colour is one of
the strongest trends in jewellery,
with shades ranging from subtle
pastel hues to lively jewel tones,
evoked by gemstones, enamel,
ceramics, and coloured metals.
| Marina B, Masriera, Amsterdam Sauer |
| Ella Moss using Pantone
Cockatoo. This unusual
hue adds a whimsical
touch to the palette
and will make a statement
this spring. |
| Luca Carati, Manu & Gaspari, Opera Omnia, Tresor |
| Adrienne Vittadini, using
Pantone Tangerine
Tango and Bellflower.
This combination
of colours gives
an ultra-bold look
this spring. |
2. NATURE
Nature in all her forms is the best
showcase for colour and design
in both fashion and jewellery. The
most popular natural trends for
2012 in jewellery are a variety of
butterflies, flowers, birds, frogs,
fish, snakes, spiders, dragonflies,
and scorpions, in both realistic
and stylized forms.
| Levian, Georland,Gumuchian, Oscar Heyman, Roberto Bravo,
Aaron Basha |
| Barbara Tfank, using Pantone Sodalite Blue.
This classic maritime hue brings
order and calmness to mind. Like
an anchor to a ship, this dependable
shade works with every color in the
palette. |
3. OPENWORK
One of the characteristics of fine
design is innovation. As the prices
of gold and other precious metals
climb still upward, designers find interesting
ways to create affordable
luxury. Traditional methods combine
with technology to offer inventive
and beautiful solutions for airy and
openwork and even filigree designs,
with or wihout gemstones, to create
an impressive look.
| Mary Esses, Seven Joias, Bergio, Damiani, Crivelli, Peter Storm |
| Adam by Adam Lippes
using Pantone Sweet
Lilac. Evoking
the fresh scents
of summer, this
delicate pinkish
lilac adds a touch
of romance to any
wardrobe. |
4. HOOPING IT UP
One of the most perennial types
of jewellery is the hoop earring. No
longer simply in plain metal and no
longer merely round, hoops have
taken on a multitude of styles and
forms. Clothed in diamonds or gemstones,
crafted in various metals,
and coming in a variety of stylized
forms, hoops will continue to be a
favourite in 2012, with a design to
please everyone and every budget.
| Carla Amorim, Marco Bicego, Ivanka Trump, Katrina Kelly |
| Cynthia Steffe by
Shaun Kearney using
Pantone Starfish.
Starfish, a perfect
warm summer
neutral, complement
all colors
featured in this
season’s top ten. |
5. ON THE CUFF
A staple on the runways this season,
cuffs can be found in a wide variety
of styles, textures, and sizes. Coming
in plain metal or highly embellished
with the dazzle of diamonds
and gemstones, cuffs range from
the simple to the sophisticated, and
continue to be an important part of
any fashionista’s wardrobe.
| Jewelmer, Metalsmith Sterling, Bapalal Keshvlal, Adam & Martucci, Zorab |
| Pamela Roland using
Pantone Driftwood.
Driftwood is an
adaptable blend
of beige and gray
with a slightly
weathered feel. |
6. ALTERNATIVES
While the white metals of palladium
and silver have joined the ranks
of noble metals along with gold
and platinum, there is a variety of
non-traditional materials that also
participate in the realm of today’s
jewellery. Among them are titanium,
wood, ceramics, cobalt, steel, brass,
and enamel as well as a number of
treatments and platings, including
the black finish so prized in contemporary
jewellery today.
| Raffaella Mannelli, Scott Kay, Edward Mirell, Bizotto, Rebecca, Leila Tai, Siera |
| Bill Blass using
Pantone Solar Power.
Providing a jolt
of energy, Solar
Power radiates
warmth and cheer. |
7. ROUGH & READY
A trend that began several years
ago, mostly with artisanal jewellers,
has now become more mainstream
with unique and original creations
embodying rough or unusual gemstones
in their “natural” state or
thinly sliced, but embellished with
gold or silver as well as other stones.
Examples include pieces made with
rough, uncut, and sliced diamonds,
sapphires, and emeralds, as well as
other gemstones and small geodes
or other minerals.
| Pearce Design, Todd Reed, Pamela Huizenga, Coomi, Minah Joias, , Nina Runsdorf |
| Nahm using Pantone
Margarita. A piquant
yellow-green, it
lifts spirits with
its refreshing and
stimulating glow. |
8. ON THE EDGE
Skulls are the embodiment of the
edgy trend. Whether in pendants,
rings, cufflinks, earrings, bracelets,
or brooches, the fascination with
skulls, both fanciful and human, as a
motif in jewellery is very prevalent in
2010. From prestigious pieces set
with precious gemstones and diamonds
to a range of simpler silver
creations, skulls are a must-have
jewellery and fashion item for many
consumers today. Even some pens
have taken on an edgy decor.
| Montegrappa, Alessio Boschi, Jasmine Alexander, MVee, de Grisogno, Pippo Perez, Pochai Jewellery |
| VPL by Victoria Bartlett
using Pantone Tangerine
Tango. An enticing
juicy orange, this
is a vivacious and
appealing refresher
to enliven anyone’s
outlook this spring. |
9. THE TASSEL
Tassels are gaining in popularity and
can be seen in all types of earrings
and pendants for 2012. They dazzle
in small gemstone beads, and can
be made of rough cut or facetted
gemstones. The most popular gems
are rubies, emeralds, spinels, onyx,
rough diamonds, and various types
of coloured quartz. Tassels are also
delightful in seed pearls and a multitude
of metallic chains.
| Rafael Cennamo using
Pantone Bellflower.
A distinct ornamental
purple, fanciful
Bellflower exudes
uniqueness and
creativity. |
| A&Furst, Bastian Inverun, NF Joias, Syna |
10. PERSONALIZED
The penchant for individual beads,
charms, lockets, and other forms
of personalized jewellery continues
unabated in 2012. Individual taste
demands adornment that reflects
lifestyle, beliefs, and emotions or
that commemorates certain special
moments in a person’s life. The
small charms and beads may come
in gold, silver, steel, ceramic, glass,
gemstones, wood, enamel, or many
other materials, all in the name of personalized jewellery.
| Amore & Baci, Costantini, Art’orafo, Ti Sento, Bliss, Pasquale Bruni |
| Peter Som using Pantone Cabaret.
A sensual and
intense rosy-red,
Cabaret is an
excellent choice
for summer
clothing and
cosmetics. |
Fashion sketches, quotes, and colours are courtesy of Pantone Fashion Color Report Spring/Summer 2012.
